Fashion Glossary

Here we collect some definitions for fashion terms that we use for "Getting dressed in former times".

Modeglossar

Hier wollen wir einige Definitionen von Modebegriffe sammeln, die wir für "Ankleiden in historischen Zeiten" benötigen. Sortiert sind sie nach den englischen Übersetzungen.


Boater - "Kreissäge"

The boater is a straw hat with a brim, flat top, and a wide silk band around the crown. It was a hat style that was particularly prominent during the early 20th cebntury. It was worn by men on seasonal basis during the Summer. Men of all ages wore them. Boys did not commonly wear boaters, but we do see a few boys wearing them during the very early 20th century. It began to decline in popularity during the 1930s. We even see some younger women wearing them in the early 20th century.
These hats had class connotations. You wouldn't see them much among working-class men.

Ein Modesilhouette der 1870er und 1880er mit besonderer Betonung des Damengesäßes. Für den Begriff Tournüre gab es zahlreiche Names- und Schreibvarianten. Besonders die Tournüre der 1880er wurde auch als "Cul de Paris" bezeichnet, zu deutsch "Pariser Hintern". Spöttisch wurde die gewagte Rundung "Prachtpopö" genannt. Tournüre wurde auch Turnüre geschrieben. Das englische Pendant ist "bustle".


Bustle - Tournüre

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Ein Modesilhouette der 1870er und 1880er mit besonderer Betonung des Damengesäßes. Für den Begriff Tournüre gab es zahlreiche Names- und Schreibvarianten. Besonders die Tournüre der 1880er wurde auch als "Cul de Paris" bezeichnet, zu deutsch "Pariser Hintern". Spöttisch wurde die gewagte Rundung "Prachtpopö" genannt. Tournüre wurde auch Turnüre geschrieben. Das englische Pendant ist "bustle".


Flat cap

The flat cap was a very popular style in America during the 1900s-30s. Conventions in America and Europe were quite different. In Europe the flat cap was a sporty style worn by young men for golf or other outdoor events. And an even more common convention was that it was worn by working men. In America, it was also worn as a sporty style by young men, but it was much less worn by workers. Primarily it was a boys' style. Virtually every boy in the 1910s and 20s had a flat cap. We have seen some European boys wearing them, but probably except in the Soviet Union, it was not as widely worn as in America.

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Cut-away jacket

We believe this is the best term for a kind of jacket, that actually is "cut-away". These kind of jackets are only fastened at the top and with a mostly curved front exposing the waistcoat below. So far we do not know if this term was used at the time they were popular, the 1850s-80s. Or if so how commonly. Some period sources seem to have called it a "Zouave" jacket, at least the ones with Zouave styling (trimmed with braid in an obvious way). We have seen it used since. A modern term may be "bolero" jacket. It is often used for girls' outfits. The two terms we believe describe essentially the same garment. We try to get to the lowest common denominator so to speak - the generic term. This often means creating a single term for consistency throughout the homepage, even though there was no such accepted term at the time. The way to do this is to use a term describing the garment physically. We think cut-away jacket is a good basic description for all the different types such as Zouave and Fauntleroy as well as the plain, unadorned jackets of the 1860s. Zouave may have been the first of such jackets, but that does not mean that this should be the generic term used.

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Zouave-style cut-away jacket

A Zouave-style cut away jacket is a cut-away jacket (see "cut-away jacket"-denition above) with Zouave styling. Zouave styling usually includes lavishly trimming with braid. Often there are bright colors and sometimes these jackets are combined with baggy pants.

Eine passende deutschsprachige Übersetzung fällt uns hier leider nicht ein. Das übersetzte Ergebnis wäre ein unglaubliches Begriffsungetüm ("Zouave-Stil Weggeschnitten-Jacke"). Wir bleiben deshalb beim englischen Begriff, der auch schon komplex ist und beschreiben, worum es sich hier handelt.

    
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